With New York Fashion week come and gone, I only have the arrival of the first Spring Vogue issue to look forward to, to feed my fashion obsession. Luckily, this one is extra large. Tearing through the cover and diving into the ads, I was more often than not, disappointed. It seems like many brands (like Balenciaga and Net-A-Porter) are mimicking Marc Jacobs’ old-timey filter and quirky models. Louis Vuitton uses far too much cotton candy pink and since when has Burberry Porsum’s shoots looked like Macy’s ads?

Among the disappointments, there was a repeated gem: Valentino. Shot by Deborah Turbeville in Guanajuato, Mexico, the ethereal collection is fit with Central American inspirations and homages to Virginia Wolfe and Daisy Buchanan. The location in the Mexican ruins offers an eery remembrance to a past sophistication, a contemporary rebellion through the graffiti and destruction and a tranquil, earthly connection shown by delicate but determined sprouts. Blinding sunlight contrasts with heavy shadows in an early morning twilight, accentuating Valentino’s spring color palette. The result is pure, edgy, elegance.